Think you might have a bad bike fit? The number one sign is discomfort. Knee pain, an achy back, chafing, stiff shoulders, or numbness in your hands (or nether regions) are all red-flag indicators that something is amiss.
The most common culprit is a bike that's too big or too small, but even if you’re on the right size bike, your fit could still be out of whack. An improperly adjusted saddle height, or the wrong size stem or bars can just as easily cause similar fit issues to the wrong sized frame.
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“Even if your saddle is just one centimeter too high or low, you can run into problems,” says Todd Carver, co-founder of the well-regarded bike fit company Retül. “And that little amount of pain you are feeling right now can lead to more serious injuries down the road. That’s why it’s critical to address improper fit issues sooner than later.”
Here are the key components to a proper bike fit, and what you should look for when sizing yourself up properly.
Start with your frame—check your standover height.
To get your fit dialed, you of course need to start with the right size bike frame. Begin by checking standover height, which is the distance between the top tube and your crotch when straddling the bike. Aim for about one inch of clearance if the bike has a traditional straight top tube, or two inches for a bike with a sloping top tube.
Check your saddle height by pedaling.
While there are all manner of methods to determine what’s right for you, the basic gist of getting a proper saddle height is that when pedaling in a seated position, your knee should be slightly bent (about 10 degrees) at the bottom of the pedal stroke. If your knee is locking out at the bottom of the stroke, your seat is too high— and if you feel like your leg never gets a rest, it might be too low. When you think you have it nailed, have a friend watch you from behind to make sure your hips don’t rock from side to side.
Use string to check fore/aft position of your saddle.
While seated comfortably in the center of your saddle, spin your cranks to the horizontal position, then have a friend drop a line of string from the front of your forward kneecap (try tying something heavy to it to make it hang straight.) In the saddle right position, the end of the string should just touch the front of your crank. If it falls ahead or behind the end of the crankarm, move the saddle fore or aft accordingly until you hit the mark.
RELATED: How to Adjust Your Saddle
Use the "hidden hub" trick to check your stem length.
Now it's time to check out your stem length. The ideal distance will vary based on flexibility and riding style, but generally you’ll know you’re in the ballpark when you are seated on your bike with elbows slightly bent and hands on the brake hoods, and you look down at your front bike hub and it is obscured by the handlebar. If the hub is viewable in front of or behind your bars, try swapping out a shorter or longer stem.
For handlebars, go wide if you're unsure.
As for handlebars, aim for a width that matches your shoulder width. Bars typically come in 38cm, 40cm, 42cm, and 44cm sizes. When in doubt go wider, which can make breathing easier by opening up your chest and lungs. Also, consider the amount of drop your bars have. If you’re not particularly flexible, choose a shallower drop bar, which makes it easier to comfortably maintain an aerodynamic sprinting position.
RELATED: Your Road Bike Handlebar Guide
Check the height of your stem and saddle.
Also pay attention to the height of your bike stem, which should be about an inch below the top of your saddle. This will make it easier to use the drops of your handlebars without discomfort. Typically the ideal configuration is to have zero to 20mm of spacers and a stem that is 90mm to 120mm. If you need a giant stack of spacers and stubby 70mm stem to get comfortable, it likely means your bike probably isn’t the right size. That’s why it’s critical to pay attention to these types of issues during the bike buying process. It’s far easier to change a stem than a bike.
When in doubt, try it out.
Finally, remember that bike fit can often involve a lot of trial and error. “If your position needs significant adjustment, make changes incrementally to avoid shocking your body and possibly causing injury,” advises Carver. “And when in doubt, hire a professional bike fitter.”
